*This article was published in Vol. 52 No. 2 of Cycle Canada digital magazine.
Click here to read the part 1.
Click here to read the part 2.
Click here to read the part 4.
I am spending the night at the Last Chance Saloon in Wayne (Alberta) and the last paragraph of my previous report was…:
Now it’s time to go to bed. I’m looking forward to the upcoming days as they will take me to the famous Canadian Rockies. I say good night to my BMW and go upstairs to my room in a hotel which, may I recall you, has the reputation of being haunted. I am remembering all the great things I did today and quickly fall asleep. But around midnight… I hear the door knob of my room turning…!!!
Oh boy! Was I surprised when I realized someone was trying to enter my room! But then, my primal scream would have turned back even the most menacing ghost! Finally, we found out it was a mix-up in room reservations… It would be too long to go through the details, but let’s say that this was the main event of the weekend in the village (of approximately 30 people!). We all laughed a lot. Ha! Ha! Ha!
So, I am now getting ready to go on with my road trip to the Rockies and I’ll be riding in a totally different landscape!
Only a few minutes after leaving Wayne, I stop at the Horseshoe Canyon on Road 9. I just had to take time to admire this exceptional Badlands moonlike landscape sculpted by millions of years of rain and wind: it’s absolutely magnificent! My plan is then to head up north to go around Calgary and take a break at the Water Valley Saloon (but it’s too early and it’s closed). I then head back south to Corcoran and take Road 1A. That section of road is parallel to Road 1, but with less traffic, it follows Bow River and you can see horses going about freely. A little before Canmore, I take Road 1 to reach the scenic route to Lake Minnewanka. Oh wow! It’s like entering a postcard! The scenery reminds me of wallpaper pictures of my youth that people used in hopes of opening up a window in the wall of a 10 × 10 room…!
Even my BMW R 1250 GS is flabbergasted: it’s so beautiful! Photos simply can’t do justice to the Rockies, believe me… they’re HUGE!
When I decided to get on this road trip, I promised myself that I would walk at least one hour each day (beginning in Alberta) in natural or historical sites. Until now, I walked in the Dinosaur Provincial Park, the Midland Provincial Park, the Horseshoe Canyon and then in Bankhead, a carbon mining ghost town. I am beginning to be concerned about the possibility of facing a bear in a trail, but so far so good… I did see a cub, though; fortunately, I was on the bike!
Mother nature is generous, the weather is absolutely fine, with temperatures ranging from 5 to 25 degrees Celsius. Despite the terrible fires that devastated the area in the past few months, I can’t detect any smell of smoke in the air.
Since lodging is very expensive in Banff, I decide to spend two nights in Radium Hot Springs, on the British Columbia side. Cute little “Bambis” quietly wander around at the back of the motel. The next day, on my way back to Banff, I stop at the Continental Divide, the natural boundary that separates the water systems between east and west. One thing that surprises me in particular in this region is the almost unreal colour of the water! This blue-green turquoise seems to come right out of a fairy tale.
When travelling on a motorcycle, I try to avoid urban centres and crowds as much as possible. Still, there are musts and classics not to be missed (Banff, Lake Louise…), but there were so many people and so many cars that I went fairly quickly through those spots…
At this point, I must specify that you need a pass to access to the Park’s natural sites. I didn’t know… So I illegally rode to the Natural Bridge (and once there, decided to defy the law!) I fell in love with that place and would really like to come back to see more of it. I then head back to the motel because tomorrow, the Icefield Parkway awaits me!
WOWWWW!!! The Icefield Parkway is an absolute natural marvel! The road itself is fairly plain but the scenery is… BREATHTAKING! You have to pay $10 to access the famous Scenic Drive. Do not forget to fill up your tank (in Saskatchewan River Crossing, gas prices will throw you off your seat…).
Once out of the Icefield Parkway, I take 93A and head to Mount Edith Cavell. On my way there, I see a big male wapiti; it shouts loudly when I pass by his side. My BMW R 1250 GS is very much surprised too! That road is so twisty that even the GPS goes berserk! Then, what a peaceful feeling in front of the majestic glacier, in which you can even see the shape of an angel: that’s my TOP for the day! Of course, I had to do some cardio-hiking to get there, but it was absolutely worth it! That kind of place touches me… After this absolutely fine day, I’ll be sleeping in Valemount (B.C.).
When I wake up, a cold rain is falling, and it looks as if it’s not going to stop soon…
And indeed it rains all day and the temperature stays around 5 or 6 degrees (all motorcyclists know that 6 degrees with rain and wind is the equivalent of minus 1000!!!). My plan is to reach Lillooet. All day, I feel like Mother Nature is shedding tears because she is going through an intense heartbreak… A riding day with no visibility, big trucks throwing more water at me, and intense cold that keeps me so stiff that I developed a blister in the hand despite wearing gloves. I keep riding for 500 km going through lots of roads under construction and loose gravel. My heated vest is barely up to the task and the GS heated grips never leave the High setting. Luckily, I had a little rain break between 3 and 4 p.m…!
Road 99 makes me forget that though day and reconciles me with life! I am now riding on the very kind of road I prefer: vertiginous, tight curves, imposing mountains and spectacular scenery. What’s more, it’s surrounded with sage and other aromatic herbs. In my opinion, the Duffey Lake Road (99) is the most beautiful road in Canada. It’s also the kind of road that’s optimal for BMW’s 40th anniversary R 1250 GS. It made us both happy! Really an exceptional road, a piece of cake! It was still pretty cold when I left in the morning (6 degrees again), but sunny, and the temperature climbed up to 22 in the afternoon!
Continuing on my way towards Vancouver, I stop for a break by Green Lake in Whistler and further along I am enchanted by the Brandywine Falls Provincial Park. A short walk takes you to the falls for another nice break: a beautiful spot!
I stop for the night in the “Vancouver area”, do a little laundry and go to bed. Tomorrow afternoon I’ll be taking the ferry to Vancouver Island.
In the morning my first stop is at the High Road Langley BMW dealership (thanks to Daniel, Jonah and Kelly for your amazing service!). While there, I buy a helmet visor water-repellent product; of course, I would prefer not having to use it, but who knows…
After a few kilometres of traffic and city driving, I get to the ferry dock. That triggered special feelings and fine memories with my clients and friends on the ferry to Corsica with Road2luxe… I’m really looking forward to living that again!
Landing on the island, I head to Road 4 (Pacific Rim HWY) to reach the ancient forest that hosts giant Douglas firs; a pure delight for the senses of sight and smell. I want to walk in that forest tomorrow morning.
So, as soon as I leave my Port Alberni motel, I go for a walk in Cathedral Grove and the MacMillan Provincial Park. A MAGICAL place! I LOVED it!
In this amazing environment, I had a special thought for friends who died in the course of last year… Eddy, 54; Denise, 49; Michel, early sixties… people around my age who disappeared way too soon. I promised I would take them with me on the bike for this trip… Not easy to ride with tears in your eyes, but Eddy kept telling crazy stories and the others laughed, so it was OK…
Then, my ultimate goal: TOFINO!
I’VE MADE IT! Yahoo!! Mission accomplished!
I then continue to Ucluelet on my great-looking BMW 40th anniversary R 1250 GS. I find a motel and since it’s still early, I go for a 9 km walk! Vive les vacances! I go down to the Pacific. The water is cold but the sea smells great, the rock formations are unique and the waves are nice: absolutely beautiful. I head to a food truck for lunch, the Ravenlady, and realize that the owner is from Québec, and that he serves poutine!
In the evening, I had the chance to meet the friend of a friend who became a friend of mine…! He left Québec a long time ago and now lives in Ucluelet. A fine evening talking and laughing with John who surprised me when he arrived on his antique BSA. It’s cool to reconnect with social life…! The BMW R 1250 GS is also taking it easy and we’re having a lot of fun!
The next day, it rains all day. On Vancouver Island, temperatures are mild all year-round, but rain and wind are often part of the picture. I would’ve liked to stay a few more days, but Mother Nature did not seem too inviting at that point. After missing the noon ferry, I catch the next one, at 2:20, and head back to the continent alongside my faithful BMW R 1250 GS. On the boat, I browse the Internet for a place to spend the night, but there’s nothing, niet, nada! No room available, unless I pay an exorbitant price for the night. I finally find a motel in Hope, 165 km further. The rain did not let go one minute since I left this morning, and I hope I will make it to Hope early this evening…
Fourth and last part in the next issue: Back home!
